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The buttons also seemed like they could be fragile due to this being a particularly cheap (later) player (rather than being an early one of a reputable brand). Luckily, due to the hard work of our forum sponsor, we didn't loose any of the previous posts either! April 21, 2002 -We have been on version 2 of the forum software for about a week now. We have no idea when/if they will be back up. February 26, 2002 -As you can see, the forums are back. No idea if it will be back or not, we don't have the bandwidth to host it locally. One odd and concerning thing I did discover was that I also found in the thrift store the Crown-branded AC adapter that was supposedly donated with this player; the ratings matched, but upon testing it with it plugged in (because the power jack was too small to do so independently with my multimeter) that instead of putting out the rated and required 4.5V, it was producing 7V. I was concerned that this over voltage (the player can also run off 2 x AA batteries which would be no more than 3V) would have caused damage.

Refer to the documentation of your card for more details. If it isn't then you might find jumpers on the card to set the mode. In some situations with many devices, a set of "pull-up" resistors are needed to help stabilize the i2c bus. On newer 486 and all Pentium (and above) machines, the parallel port is integrated onto the motherboard and you can set its mode in the BIOS setup. However, on most Pentium and above motherboards, setting the parallel port to SPP mode won't give you a true SPP port because of the slight changes in the electronical layout of the parallel port. I can't give you good advice on how to make sure the holes line up. Next we need to drill some holes so our pi board can be securely fitted to the case. It served me well for a good few years until, if I remember correctly, it stopped being able to read discs (I still have the carry case I used with it though!). To make this easier for users, "powered busboard" expanders have been made to help - which also provide additional i2c connectors.

To make the Mega Pi, it only cost me £2.29, many, many hours of the only life I'm ever going to live and a blood sacrifice to the Old Gods (honestly, no joke). I preserved the plug and play nature of the console and the LED and power button work more or less as they should, but I couldn't get the old controller wired up to the Pi Zero. Anyway, I abandoned hope for the time being of reusing the old controller and moved on to at least getting the power button and LED connected up. I still managed to mess that up, mistakenly using all green wires for the LED and all orange for the power button. You can also see where the pads ripped away on the power and LED board. PROTIP: It's always easier to solder wires and components to a circuit board than it is to desolder them. A faulty ribbon cable that leads from the main circuit board to the controls and display module? Added a board layout and schematic of the TX injection point for the GM300 9600 baud modification. I removed the screw and finally I gained full access to control board so I could inspect and test the ribbon cable attachment and buttons.

The technical specifications of control cables would depend basically on the area of use and application. Therefore, we are able to offer an extensive range of cables covering the customer base from a plethora of fields. Question: What is the effective range of the remote? Added a note on flashing the Professional radios with a RIB-less cable. February 10, 2002 -You will all note that the Discussion Forums have been down for a while now. I have now dismantled the player and tried various things to test and get it into working order, but with little overall success. But sometimes a few presses would be required and I kind of came to assume that three presses were necessary to get this far, but perhaps this is indicative of the underlying fault. I also manipulated the ribbon cable to see what effect that would have but the fault was so persistent and random that it was hard to tell.

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